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2014 Ford Fiesta 1.6L harmonic balancer issue Fixed!

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#1
Timing is now set it works great.
 
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scotman

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#2
There are three special tools that set the position and alignment of the harmonic balancer. One is a pin that is inserted through an access hole in the block and the other one is a locking bracket that engages the flywheel and holds the crank in TDC.
The crankshaft pulley alignment tool (Tshaped item in middle image) is the damper pulley alignment tool.
I never needed to remove the crankshaft pulley when I did the timing belt and water pump. I didn’t buy these items then. But, they are at the top of my list now.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
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Handy Andy

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#3
Read this thread...

https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/fiesta-1-6-j-code-timing-problem.8918/post-24304

It can open some old wounds, but this forum needed to heal from the frustration a Ford owner had...

All the "timing" sensor figuring out, is done to the rear, the two upper cam sensors (Intake and Exhaust) with a third - the output at the Crank, is the Crankshaft Position Sensor - and it's position on the bell housing that mounts the flywheel - the clutch, or flex plate - to the transmission.

There is also a bar you apply ACROSS the output side upper cams - fixes two camshafts that once properly aligned - this tool drops into place lets you then fixate the cams so they don't move and let you put on the belt on the front.

1682870429324.png

There are two sets of cam stop tools - one to the front is the curved piece that locks the pulley gear set in proper position, but the camshafts themselves have to be set from the rear, that is a long bar that drapes across the two cams and a slot or opening in the cylinder head for it to drop into place and fixate the cams once the front pulleys are set.

1682869785078.png

This second cam stop procedure HAS to be done because once the Balancer is pulled off - the aspect (timing alignment) the bottom toothed gear had, is now gone. So the tooth to crank seat position is now off, so the cams, crank and balancer with the inner toothed sprocket gear, all need to be fixated - BEFORE you put on the belt - then once the belt is on - all parts are tightened together so the timing position for all sensors will turn correctly and the engine will start and run.

It is not enough just to do the front pulley - because the cams may still have "advance" applied to them from the idle and residual oil left in the chambers that does not drain out. Partially due to the "centrifuge effect" from the oil spinning in the advance chamber still occurs well after the engine has idled down.

In fact you can see this effect by looking at your RPM gauge while the engine runs - the idle speed of the engine fully warmed up is about 750 RPM, but if oil is still in the chambers - it affects the timing and idle speed - this is part of the engines emissions controls - the oil is still draining out of those upper cam chambers those pulley-gears cover. .So once that oil finally drains out - it may not have placed the cams in the fully reset (full retarded no advance) condition when you shut off the motor - before it had the chance to get all the oil out of those upper chambers.

The crankshaft pulley alignment tool (Tshaped item in middle image) is the damper pulley alignment tool.
I never needed to remove the crankshaft pulley when I did the timing belt and water pump. I didn’t buy these items then. But, they are at the top of my list now.
1682873999030.png
 
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Thread Starter #4
There are three special tools that set the position and alignment of the harmonic balancer. One is a pin that is inserted through an access hole in the block and the other one is a locking bracket that engages the flywheel and holds the crank in TDC.
The crankshaft pulley alignment tool (Tshaped item in middle image) is the damper pulley alignment tool.
I never needed to remove the crankshaft pulley when I did the timing belt and water pump. I didn’t buy these items then. But, they are at the top of my list now.

View attachment 7954 View attachment 7955 View attachment 7956 Thanks for the reply but I have the whole kit. including the T shaped harmonic crankshaft pulley alignment tool. My issue is there is nowhere to connect the tool to. There is no crank sensor next to pulley. I had someone tell me my engines crank pulley just goes on in no certain position just use proper torque specs. I still use the pin to set crankshaft at tdc with stopper where the starter goes to tighten the crank bolt 74 ft lbs, then 90 degrees wait a whole minute then tighten 10 degrees more. use of X camshaft lockin tool as well.
 
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Thread Starter #5
Read this thread...

https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/fiesta-1-6-j-code-timing-problem.8918/post-24304

It can open some old wounds, but this forum needed to heal from the frustration a Ford owner had...

All the "timing" sensor figuring out, is done to the rear, the two upper cam sensors (Intake and Exhaust) with a third - the output at the Crank, is the Crankshaft Position Sensor - and it's position on the bell housing that mounts the flywheel - the clutch, or flex plate - to the transmission.

There is also a bar you apply ACROSS the output side upper cams - fixes two camshafts that once properly aligned - this tool drops into place lets you then fixate the cams so they don't move and let you put on the belt on the front.


There are two sets of cam stop tools - one to the front is the curved piece that locks the pulley gear set in proper position, but the camshafts themselves have to be set from the rear, that is a long bar that drapes across the two cams and a slot or opening in the cylinder head for it to drop into place and fixate the cams once the front pulleys are set.


This second cam stop procedure HAS to be done because once the Balancer is pulled off - the aspect (timing alignment) the bottom toothed gear had, is now gone. So the tooth to crank seat position is now off, so the cams, crank and balancer with the inner toothed sprocket gear, all need to be fixated - BEFORE you put on the belt - then once the belt is on - all parts are tightened together so the timing position for all sensors will turn correctly and the engine will start and run.

It is not enough just to do the front pulley - because the cams may still have "advance" applied to them from the idle and residual oil left in the chambers that does not drain out. Partially due to the "centrifuge effect" from the oil spinning in the advance chamber still occurs well after the engine has idled down.

In fact you can see this effect by looking at your RPM gauge while the engine runs - the idle speed of the engine fully warmed up is about 750 RPM, but if oil is still in the chambers - it affects the timing and idle speed - this is part of the engines emissions controls - the oil is still draining out of those upper cam chambers those pulley-gears cover. .So once that oil finally drains out - it may not have placed the cams in the fully reset (full retarded no advance) condition when you shut off the motor - before it had the chance to get all the oil out of those upper chambers.



No slot on my pulley.
 

Handy Andy

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#6
Ok, that hole you're referring to?

Goes with the third tool - the one just below it - it uses the "Hole" on the flywheel.

Can you find this sensor?

1682879935435.png
IT's located on the bell housing on the rear side where the transmission goes.​

Once you locate that, you'll also know that you'll have to remove the starter...to obtain access so you can use the bolts the Starter mounted to, to put in this tool

1682880159476.png

Mounts where the Starter went

1682880275105.png
...that tab engages a tooth on the flywheel...

You align the flywheel to let the tab slide into the tooth "gap" the flywheel has.

1682880480891.png
Note that you will have to rotate the crank CAREFULLY to find the alignment gap to let the tab drop into place.

So that means...
Have you found TDC yet?

So that means - the above photo shows, that the head of the tab bolt is towards the center axis where the crankshaft is - slides down - so the bolt slides the tab into that notch and holds it in place.
Might want to post pictures of the inside and outside of the Harmonic balancer - so the Hole you found - I believe there is a pin and bolt combo you may also have to set the balancer.

The above just sets the crank to set it in position so when you're at TDC the balancer can get tightened into position once the belt and shield and all guards are in place.
 
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Thread Starter #7
Ok I will find that sensor and then use the tool. Thank you
 

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#8
Then to finish. This type of Fiesta Motor, your is similar to like what we have in he US, so the basic premise here is.

Find TDC, lock it down - so that means use the pin bolt, both the front Cam brace the Cam plate and the Starter hole lock - to freeze the engine to TDC, install the belt or tensioner or Water pump or all of them (as a rebuild new stuff - approach) - then reattach the Harmonic Balancer and tighten it down so the Cog/Sprocket gear is FIXED to the Crank journal squeezed between the Balancer and that Flange on the Journal - so it can turn as one unit.

To test - remove all your Locks and bolts (Pin one too) reinsert any bolt hardware you took out to do so, then rotate the crank and observe the pulley cam aspect - make sure it returns to exact spot after a complete two strokes (two full turns - 360 X 2 or 720 degrees of rotation for the cams to rotate and you check for binding and any other hindrances like valves striking the top of the piston) - use the Front Cam brace and rear plate to verify. IF the test fails then find the problem for remember that removing the Balancer caused you to lose many other parts of the aspect role it played in keeping it all synced.

When verified ok - then continue to install the valve cover spark plugs and guards/guides and everything you took off - put back on it reverse order so you don't lose parts or your mind.. and install the cam and crank sensors too.
 
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scotman

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#9
I must confess that I don’t like the idea of a keyless crankshaft damper. The complexity of the service process is obvious. Is cutting a key way so costly from a production standpoint that it would justify the amount of shit the mechanic must go through to get the engine to TDC? This one wasn’t done with the notion that it made anything easier or faster.
 
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#11
These things are now assembled and torqued by robots. Its a part of the new world process as are TTY bolts and many one time use components.
 
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Lordbaltas

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Thread Starter #12
Ok, that hole you're referring to?

Goes with the third tool - the one just below it - it uses the "Hole" on the flywheel.

Can you find this sensor?

View attachment 7962
IT's located on the bell housing on the rear side where the transmission goes.​

Once you locate that, you'll also know that you'll have to remove the starter...to obtain access so you can use the bolts the Starter mounted to, to put in this tool


Mounts where the Starter went

View attachment 7965
...that tab engages a tooth on the flywheel...

You align the flywheel to let the tab slide into the tooth "gap" the flywheel has.

View attachment 7966
Note that you will have to rotate the crank CAREFULLY to find the alignment gap to let the tab drop into place.

So that means...
Have you found TDC yet?

So that means - the above photo shows, that the head of the tab bolt is towards the center axis where the crankshaft is - slides down - so the bolt slides the tab into that notch and holds it in place.
Might want to post pictures of the inside and outside of the Harmonic balancer - so the Hole you found - I believe there is a pin and bolt combo you may also have to set the balancer.

The above just sets the crank to set it in position so when you're at TDC the balancer can get tightened into position once the belt and shield and all guards are in place.
I'm trying to set the timing on a 2014 Ford Fiesta. I bought the timing tool. I have everything apart. I have the camshafts all set with the locking tool. I have the bolts in place to set the engine at top dead center. I pulled off the harmonic balancer. Problem is there's no place to set the tool to align the harmonic balancer. The question I have is how do I set the harmonic balancer when there is no slot on the back of the harmonic balancer. There is however a round hole on the top of it. There is no spot to put the tool so how do I set the timing of this harmonic balancer. There is no crankshaft sensor beside the harmonic balancer. Advice please and thank you.
These things are now assembled and torqued by robots. Its a part of the new world process as are TTY bolts and many one time use components.
Yes torque to yield bolts can be a pain. I did a Subaru and their bolts can be reused over and over. They all should be this way. This is the way.
 

Handy Andy

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#13
In my experience with both Suzuki (Sprint Tracker) and that Aspire - having Deer or any sort of front end collision damages - the issues of Radiator, Engine and being a Foreign Car - added a much bigger mess to finding parts and even understanding how that side of the world worked.

The issue of the 3-cylinder Suzuki and even their 2.0L 4-cylinder - their cranks and the "dog clutch" methods they used - ugh - where do I begin?

It's easier to just put in a rebuilt motor than to try and fix the pulley or any sort of valve work - the mess comes from the fact that some of their blocks were Iron sleeved and Aluminum heads and blocks - so distortion was the bane of the work that had to be done to get the motor right let alone the correct parts to fix the issue which some never could - easier to sell it for scrap and have someone re-melt it down to re-cast and machine new heads and blocks than to try and rebuild these motors after such types of (as @scotman said about the Impact Driver) - Blunt Force blows.

The dog wags and wiggles to carve out a smooth curve letting the balancer rock back and forth in advance to heave against the internal belt. The shavings formed - later develop a type of abrasion that really polishes the shafts to a point the hardened surfaces no longer are even round!

When I see the "carvings" that some of the users have seen with their internal timing belts rocking out of the guides and carving a niche in the housing - I truly feel for them, because knowing the headaches and efforts lost in the times of past - I know what they will be going thru when they have to make some difficult choices.
 


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