06 Focus 2.0 Very high rpm at idle, need help just cannot fix!

craigndee

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2006 Focus SW 2.0
#1
Hello everyone. New member to the forum here already found some great information but need some help. 06 Focus sw 2.0 when started the idle goes right up to 2300-2500 rpm. It kind of stays there, comedown a little then creeps back up again. IF I blip the throttle it goes to say 4000 rpm and hangs there, screaming. LOL then it starts to make its way back down to the 2-2500 range again very slowly. Have tried throttle body clean, new IAC valve, new TPS, replaced pcv hose and valve, new intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets and spark plugs. The car blows from the oil cap and does plum gray smoke, not white. When I replaced the pcv hose I checked and all tumble flaps on the manifold they look and operate fine. Checked the vac lines to the intake runner actuator all good and I have visibly seem the actuator move. If I start, put in drive without touching the gas, the car will do 35mph. lol Of course the motor mounts are shot and have those to go in once I get this thing running correctly. Anyone ever come across this before? I'm starting to think the computer is to blame and am pretty tired of throwing parts at this. Any help greatly appreciated guys!
 

Handy Andy

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#2
This can be from a variety of things...

Ran a Code scanner tool in the DTC connector to review or even check for pending DTC's?

Oil Level ok?

Coolant bottle ok? Color clear and clean or dark n dirty - oily?

Do this...
While getting into your car, locate the left side OK and menu arrow buttons on the steering wheel - You can hold the Left side OK button on the steering wheel and enter into "TEST" mode and using the OK Up and Down buttons can scroll thru various test "stages" including "Voltage Test" and see if the voltage from the battery is holding up.

To do that, you Press and HOLD left side OK down (in or whatever) and insert key turn it to Ignition (On) - don't start it yet. Hold the OK in until your menu displays "TEST" - then you can let it go - release it - and let it perform a boot into self test mode - then use the Up or Down arrow on the Left Side OK - and you'll see it scrolls thru various stages or test results - you can also start the car at this time - but scroll to find "Battery Voltage" first - and look at those results - then start the car and see if the voltage can rise fast enough - if it's slow to rise, then you may have to get down and dirty and start cleaning grounding points - they may be corroded or as I have found - several wires in a bundle sent to ground - have broken away or literally have had the copper in the wire corroded away from the lug holding it to the grounding bolt.

Then you have to strip the wire and resolder it back onto the harness lug so it can make ground again.

That is if you have such a means, if not, then you'll have to use a DVM (Multi-tester) and run a "battery monitor" test (check voltage) using the DVM and even do resistance checks from the Throttle Body connector to ground - find the lowest ohmic reading value one, the one that Grounds (provides Return) for the Throttle body, it's supposed to be less than one ohm - measured to the battery or frame ground - it could be that the grounding point wire, in any bundle from the harness that grounds at various locations - has failed and is why you're seeing such a high idle because it can't "see" any true voltage reference across itself to "zero" the electronics so it knows where the throttle is set.
 
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Augusta
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2001 focus
#3
This can be from a variety of things...

Ran a Code scanner tool in the DTC connector to review or even check for pending DTC's?

Oil Level ok?

Coolant bottle ok? Color clear and clean or dark n dirty - oily?

Do this...
While getting into your car, locate the left side OK and menu arrow buttons on the steering wheel - You can hold the Left side OK button on the steering wheel and enter into "TEST" mode and using the OK Up and Down buttons can scroll thru various test "stages" including "Voltage Test" and see if the voltage from the battery is holding up.

To do that, you Press and HOLD left side OK down (in or whatever) and insert key turn it to Ignition (On) - don't start it yet. Hold the OK in until your menu displays "TEST" - then you can let it go - release it - and let it perform a boot into self test mode - then use the Up or Down arrow on the Left Side OK - and you'll see it scrolls thru various stages or test results - you can also start the car at this time - but scroll to find "Battery Voltage" first - and look at those results - then start the car and see if the voltage can rise fast enough - if it's slow to rise, then you may have to get down and dirty and start cleaning grounding points - they may be corroded or as I have found - several wires in a bundle sent to ground - have broken away or literally have had the copper in the wire corroded away from the lug holding it to the grounding bolt.

Then you have to strip the wire and resolder it back onto the harness lug so it can make ground again.

That is if you have such a means, if not, then you'll have to use a DVM (Multi-tester) and run a "battery monitor" test (check voltage) using the DVM and even do resistance checks from the Throttle Body connector to ground - find the lowest ohmic reading value one, the one that Grounds (provides Return) for the Throttle body, it's supposed to be less than one ohm - measured to the battery or frame ground - it could be that the grounding point wire, in any bundle from the harness that grounds at various locations - has failed and is why you're seeing such a high idle because it can't "see" any true voltage reference across itself to "zero" the electronics so it knows where the throttle is set.
I have an identical problem with my '01 2.0, are the steps the same to diagnose?
No codes as I had just put the battery in.
Oil Level is fine.
My coolant bottle is dirty, but has been that way for probably the last 80k miles (212k on the vehicle)
I have a Bluetooth scanner that I can read all the sensors with, the voltages read as soon as I plug it in/start it. I did notice when I unplug my tps, there is no change on how the engine is running though.
The car ran fine until I replaced the starter, in doing so I pulled the intake manifold, and then had to replace the throttle body after cracking the original when trying to remove it.
I have checked in every possible way for vacuum leaks, but with the RPMs up this high, it would have to be a huge frigging leak, and I'm not finding anything using starting fluid.
Unlike his car, my RPM's do not creep back down.


This is not an attempt to hijack his thread either, but it didn't make any sense to me to start a new one with a identical issue.
 

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Handy Andy

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#4
This seems to go back to poor grounding issues - the battery goes out, so it gets a new one, then the whole system goes out of whack - seems like I have to find those steps in which to reset the PCM throttle relearn procedure as well as the process on how to drain off the residual charge that keep alive memory uses to help the system relearn the new process.

But in the meantime, when such things like the battery are disturbed, there has to be some review - rebuild - replace even, the contacts that allow the battery to function as the main power source and references for the system to work. Includes the cables

It's the age of the system sir, that has the Oxides of March - marching on.

This may be that issue...
 

rulinon

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#5
Possibly a bad Brake Booster or vacuum leak in the brake booster/ check valve vacuum tube or rubber grommet into the brake booster
 

Handy Andy

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#6
Makes perfect sense, especially when the steps you have to take to get that Battery in and out and in - with that Cowl, the Booster is right underneath a wiper arm linkage.

Easy enough to break...

Good call!
 


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